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We exclusively use NHL 3.5 Hydraulic Lime. Unlike modern sand and cement, lime is breathable, allowing moisture to escape the building’s envelope. For properties built before the 1930s, this is the only way to prevent structural decay and ensure the health of your brickwork. Period properties were designed to move and breathe. Cement is too rigid and impermeable; it traps water inside the bricks, which leads to freeze-thaw damage where the brick faces eventually pop off (spalling). NHL 3.5 lime provides the flexibility and porosity your home was designed for when it was originally built. We generally try not perform patch pointing, as it rarely results in a successful structural or aesthetic blend. We usually require a minimum of one full elevation (wall) to ensure a uniform finish. However, we can achieve natural, historically accurate tones by blending specific red and yellow sands, avoiding the need for artificial pigments. Every job is different, but to give an idea – for an average 3-bedroom semi-detached home, a full restoration typically takes approximately 10 working days (2 weeks). This allows enough time for a meticulous rake-out of existing mortar to the correct depth, cleaning, and a hand-applied lime finish. Our pricing is transparent and based on five key variables:
The type of brick (e.g., handmade vs. machine-cut, new, stone, reclaimed etc.)
The existing mortar type (cement is harder to rake out than lime)
Access and scaffolding requirements
The total square meterage of the job
Required joint depth and finish type We advise against it. High-pressure washing can destroy the fire skin (the hard outer layer) of old bricks. We use the DOFF Steam Cleaning system, which uses high-temperature steam rather than pressure to remove biological growth and atmospheric staining without damaging the masonry. We typically clean the brickwork after raking out the old mortar but before applying the new lime. If cleaning is requested after the job, we recommend waiting at least 6 weeks to allow the lime mortar to fully set. Sometimes the signs are quite easy to see – look for crumbling mortar joints, gaps in the brickwork, or internal damp patches. A major red flag is if the mortar is recessed more than 5mm-10mm or if you see the brick faces beginning to crack or peel. You might also spot sandy deposits on windowsills, which can be crumbling mortar. Repointing is a critical fix for penetrating damp by sealing the exterior. However, damp can be caused by various factors, including roofing or ventilation. We provide an honest assessment to ensure repointing is the correct solution for your specific issue. If you are unsure, give us a call – we are happy to answer any of your questions. By far, it is applying a ‘weather-struck’ sand and cement mortar over the top of original lime. This essentially creates a plastic seal that suffocates the brick, leading to damp and eventual structural failure. When using professional-grade NHL 3.5 lime mortar, you can expect the restoration to last at least 30 years. To back this up, Unique Pointing provides a 10-year workmanship guarantee on all full-elevation projects.
Technical & Material Standards FAQ
What type of mortar do you use for period properties?
Why is Lime Mortar better than Sand and Cement?
Can you match my existing mortar colour?
The Brick Restoration Process FAQ
How long does a typical repointing project take?
How are your quotes calculated?
Is it safe to use a pressure washer on old brickwork?
Can you clean the bricks immediately after repointing?
Investment & Peace of Mind FAQ
How do I know if my house actually needs repointing?
Will repointing fix my internal damp issues?
What is the no. 1 mistake people make with old brickwork?
How long will your work last?